Years of living in Rome has left me very discerning when it comes to traditional carbonara – no peas, mushrooms, cream or thin bacon rashers pretending to be pancetta or guanciale. This is arguably one of the most comforting dishes in the world but don’t be fooled – it’s actually very hard to get right and it’s all in the timing so make sure you prepare all your ingredients so you can work fast and get your diners ready at the table so it can be eaten straight away.

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Fry off 200g of guanciale or pancetta in a little olive oil. Meanwhile put your pasta on to boil. In a small bowl mix 100g grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese with 2 egg yolks and one whole egg. Season with salt and pepper. Into the pan of now crispy pancetta add a dash of white wine. Before draining your pasta, take a full ladle of pasta water and add it to the pan. Drain the pasta, turn the heat off the saucepan and pour the pasta in, followed by the egg and cheese mixture. Mix quickly and serve immediately with extra pepper and grated cheese.

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